Ladakh – A Different World in Itself: A Painting on Canvas by God
“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta
Probably all adventure travellers are like Abu Abdullah Muhammad Ibn Battuta (1304–1369), the Moroccan Muslim scholar and traveller known for his Rihla – a series of excursions that lasted almost thirty years.
Travelling in the present context is much easier, accessible, and affordable because of better road infrastructure, sturdy automobiles, reachable accommodations, and the rising economic power of the Indian middle class.
Visiting any range of the Himalayas is always safest during the month of June, as it’s the pre-monsoon period. Somehow, in our case, we got delayed toward the end of June 2017. Pre-extensive research of the area you’re visiting, I believe, is the most mandatory part of your itinerary — apart from booking hotels and travel requirements — before embarking on the actual journey.
The Journey Begins
We commenced our travel to the Ladakh region — a place hitherto not ventured by me and the kids. Fortunately, my wife had been there long ago when road conditions were deplorable. However, it is a must for all JKites (if not all Indians) to visit Ladakh at least once in a lifetime. Probably, the new saying could be:
“Jiney Ladakh nee vekhya unney J&K nee dekhya.”
For an adventurer, travelling to Leh-Ladakh isn’t complete unless you cross Zojila Pass — the “path of blizzards” — at an altitude of 13,500 feet. Its craggy terrain, slushy mud, flowing water, and single narrow road pump up your adrenaline while you’re behind the wheel. Avoid looking down the mountain if you suffer from vertigo!
Once you cross over, you pat yourself on three things in ascending order —
1️⃣ your driving abilities,
2️⃣ your car, and
3️⃣ the Almighty!
A sigh of relief awaits at Gumri, where kids can enjoy ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles) on the glacier, while elders can relish a hot cup of tea with snacks.
Drass – The Gateway to Ladakh
As you travel further, greenery slowly gives way to semi-naked, multi-coloured mountains — and then comes Drass, the second coldest inhabited place in the world, known as “The Gateway to Ladakh.” Situated at a height of 3,230 meters (10,990 feet), Drass can experience temperatures as low as -45°C in winters. Despite the biting cold, it hosts riveting Horse Polo contests.
Ahead of Drass stands the Kargil War Memorial — Vijaypath — dedicated to the brave soldiers of the Indian Army and Air Force who fought the 1999 Kargil War. Surrounded by the very hills where the heroic battles were fought, it stands proudly on National Highway 1D. Visitors can see from there some of the peaks that our Army recaptured from Pakistan.
A giant national flag weighing 15 kg was hoisted here to commemorate India’s victory. The war was fought across 150 km at altitudes between 16,000 – 21,000 ft. Every Indian leaving this place feels a tear of pride and patriotism — the air here truly carries the fragrance of selfless nationalism.
Kargil – The Heart of Purig
Next halt – Kargil, which once was a large lake extending up to Lamayuru and Khalsi. Fossils of lobsters, horseshoe crabs, and fishes confirm this theory. Initial settlers here were the Dards, Indo-Aryan people from Central Asia who came through Gilgit and Astor. Tibetans arrived later, and Mons were the third group of settlers.
Much of present-day Kargil was earlier known as Purig, derived from the Tibetan phrase Pod-rigs (“of Tibetan-like people”), which included Kargil town, the Suru Valley, Shanhar, Chiktan, Pashkum, Bodh Kharbu, and Mulbek.
If you have two extra days, do visit Suru Valley and Zanskar.
Routes from Kargil to Leh
There are two routes from Kargil to Leh:
1️⃣ The normal, metalled road – via Lamayuru, Namika La, and Fotu La (used by 99% travellers).
2️⃣ The arduous, deserted, but adventurous route – via Batalik, home to Indo-Aryans living along the Sindh River.
We decided to explore both. The highest point en route Batalik is Hamboting La (4,100 m). The small, high-security town of Batalik (on the LOC) offers a thrilling bird’s-eye view of enemy territory.
Meeting Indo-Aryans in the villages of Darchik, Dha, Garkone, Takmachik, Domkhar, Achinathang, Hanu, and Skurbuchan was an unforgettable experience. Maximum petroglyphs (rock carvings) are found here, running parallel to the Indus River.
Carry plenty of water and snacks — reaching this point from Kargil takes at least five hours on a single treacherous road. One good hygiene stop is at Saint Hanu, run by the Indian Army, serving fresh bread pakoras, hot tea, coffee, and bottled water.
Towards Leh
From Khalsi to Leh (100 km), the drive is smooth and scenic. En route, you’ll see the Magnetic Hill, said to defy gravity (though we couldn’t experience it — perhaps we were too scientific!). Soon after comes the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers at Nimmoo, followed by Gurudwara Shri Pathar Sahib, managed by the Defence Forces — a must-visit for its Langar and spiritual calm.
Reaching Leh by road helps you get naturally acclimatised to the high altitude and low pressure. Begin sightseeing the next afternoon but make a checklist — there’s too much to explore!
Leh City Attractions
Leh offers breathtaking sites:
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Leh Palace – panoramic view of the city.
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Shanti Stupa.
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Central Asian Museum – showcasing Silk Route artefacts and offering rooftop views of the Stok, Zanskar, and Karakoram ranges.
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War Memorial near Leh Airport – exhibits on wars fought in Leh, photos of brave soldiers, equipment, rucksacks, and uniforms from Siachen. (Proud moment seeing our Jammu’s pride, Hony. Capt. Bana Singh PVC).
Major monasteries not to miss: Hemis, Shey, Thiksey, Stakna, Likir, Lamayuru, Spituk, Diskit, and Chemre — many are easily accessible along the main highway.
Cafés, Reading Culture & Shopping
Leh’s eateries are surprisingly classy and affordable — The Tibetan Kitchen, Summer Harvest, La Pizzata, and Gizmo are top picks.
Book cafés abound — cozy corners where foreigners sip cappuccinos, munch cookies, and dive into books. One biannual journal, “Heritage Himalayas,” particularly caught my eye.
Mobile and internet connectivity remain poor here (I managed through a Defence network). We must improve digital connectivity in such regions, though profitability remains a challenge due to limited open months.
The local market is a tourist’s delight — authentic Pashmina shawls (from Capra Hircus goats of Changthang), Yak wool jackets, metal sculptures, musical instruments, prayer wheels, Tibetan bowls, brass & bronze art, embroidered T-shirts, apricots, berries, herbal oils, and more — so shop till you drop!
Beyond Leh – The Must-Visit Destinations
At least two up-country excursions are musts:
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Nubra Valley via the Khardung La Pass (second highest motorable road).
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Pangong Tso Lake via the Chang La Pass (third highest).
If you have more days, add Tsomoriri, Zanskar, and the Leh-Manali road to your adventure list — though be ready for rough terrain and basic stays.
Conclusion
In all, you require a minimum of 15+ days to cover an extensive Ladakh–Kargil tour. Since most of us don’t have that luxury, try dividing it across two consecutive years — cover one half now and the rest next season.
As for me, I intend to complete it — God willing — in 2018!